Most of us live active lifestyles. Whether we're commuting to work, rushing to workout classes, or heading to hangouts with friends, we're constantly exposed to the elements. I split my time between New York and Paris, and while I feel privileged to live in such dynamic cities, they take a toll on my skin. Besides the cold winters and humid summers in both locations, there's also pollution to contend with. Perhaps unsurprisingly, my dermatologist recommends I double cleanse every night to remove SPF and the general grime that my skin collects throughout the day.
While the best exact cleansing routine will be different for everyone (as no two people have the same skin), one thing is for sure: Cleansing your face matters. Read on for expert-approved advice for deep cleansing your face, straight from board-certified dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD, and aesthetic physician Arnaud Lambert, MD.
Meet the Experts
- Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at the Shafer Clinic in New York.
- Arnaud Lambert, MD, is a French aesthetic physician in private practice in central Paris. He teaches aesthetics and lasers at Paris XII-Créteil University.
Is Deep Cleansing Your Face Really Necessary?
"It's good to thoroughly cleanse the skin to remove any pollutants and impurities," including "sebum, dead skin cells, pollutants, [and] makeup," says Engelman. "If left on the skin, these things can clog the pores, leading to acne and breakouts, and cause the skin to age more rapidly."
Though "skincare routines are becoming increasingly elaborate," Lambert emphasizes that "one of the most beneficial things for maintaining skin quality, its functions, metabolism, and skin barrier is cleansing."
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How Often Should I Be Deep-Cleansing My Face?
While your nighttime cleanse should be more thorough, most people can take it a little easier in the morning.
Of course, any facial cleansing routine should "be adapted to our skin type, its sensitivity, and our daily cosmetic routine," but how frequently we should wash our faces is pretty standard: "The skin should be cleansed twice a day," says Lambert. "Generally, as we don't apply any makeup at night, a simple cleanse with micellar water or a cleansing gel in the morning is enough to remove night creams and perspiration," he says. "For oily skin, a foaming cleansing gel can be useful."
Frequency isn't the only thing to consider—how you wash your face is important, too. Engelman cautions against "rubbing or scrubbing too harshly, or using exfoliants too frequently. This can create micro-injuries in the barrier and irritate the skin."
The Expert Guide to Deep Cleansing Your Face
Remove Makeup
The first step in a deep cleansing routine is removing any makeup, which can be achieved with makeup remover, micellar water, or cleansing oil. "Makeup remover or micellar water are great for attracting and removing makeup and pollutants, but I really like the double cleansing method," Engelman tells us. "To double cleanse, wash the face with cleansing oil—I like Elizabeth Arden's Ceramide Replenishing Cleansing Oil because it's effective and super nourishing—then use a regular cleanser to fully wash the face. This is a gentle way to get the skin [super] clean."
Use a Purifying Cleanser
After removing your makeup, you'll want to "perform a deeper cleansing with a water-based gel or a foaming gel [to] purify, remove residues, and prepare the skin for night creams," instructs Lambert. For this step, Engelman recommends "washing with a gentle, nourishing cleanser. I personally love Epionce Lytic Gel Cleanser. Cetaphil Daily Facial Cleanser is a solid option that cleans deeply and is great for most skin types, and they also have a Gentle Skin Cleanser that's hydrating for dry skin."
Exfoliate—Maybe
While both experts recommend exfoliating as the third step in a deep cleansing routine, unlike removing your makeup or double cleansing, it shouldn't be an everyday thing. Think of it as the next step in an even deeper or deepest cleansing routine. "Exfoliating with either a chemical exfoliant (alpha hydroxy and/or beta hydroxy acids) or physical exfoliant (buffing particles) removes dead skin cell buildup and stimulates cell turnover for brighter, fresher, and more even skin," says Engelman. But "It's important not to exfoliate too frequently, as over-exfoliating can irritate the skin. Using an exfoliator about once or twice per week should be sufficient."
Tone and Mask
Before heading into your serums and moisturizers, consider toning. "Some skin types are also good candidates for a toning lotion that helps balance the skin's pH and maintain its balance," says Lambert. Engelman agrees, recommending Humphrey's Witch Hazel Toners, "which are made with wild crop certified witch hazel along with a variety of nourishing botanicals to address different skin types and concerns."
Lambert says this is also a great time to apply any hydrating masks. "Your skin is now clean, strengthened, and ready to welcome your night routine and regenerate."
